Where should I set the timing on my performance engine?

The battery is the fuel tank for the ignition system magnetos excluded. I would recommend a set of noise canceling headphones as well since Dyno bays are loud by nature.

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What type of carburetor are you using? What do you have to replace my points distributor and what are the advantages with electronic versus points? Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below. I went and hooked up a timing light, warmed her up, put her in gear, at idle about rpm no vacuum advance, and checked timing.

I've traced a majority of the ignition code and am fairly certain the current logged value is what is sent to the base hardware to be realized as an ign angle. MSD also offers a six feet long shielded mag pickup cable, PN , that can be used if you are having problems with EMI interfering with other electronics on your vehicle.

Set your Timing

The cent kicks in fairly quick on the run up but stays at about 22 till you get up higher then climbs to 29 or so. Dont go running WOT read plugs etc.. Wiki Edits: The first thing people do who have no clue what the hell they're doing when their engine starts running funny, is to start twisting the distributor around and screwing with the timing.

Also changed the gap to Remember that electricity takes the path of least resistance to a ground so if the gap is too large the spark may short to another point with less resistance. This terminal contacts the center of the rotor, moves across the rotor and jumps across a small gap to the spark plug terminal of the cap. This is when the load on the engine is less and vacuum is higher.

For example, an MSD 6 or 7 series ignition consumes approximately one amp per thousand rpm, so at 5, rpm the MSD alone is using five amps.

The act of combustion remains fairly constant but because the piston is travelling at a much higher speed, the initiation of the combustion process needs to occur sooner. You want all of your advance in at about 2, RPM. The trick is; for performance use you want as much advance as you can get on the crank and the least amount from the mechanical weights in the distributor, hence why race distributors have no mechanical advance at all.

If you are driving on the steet you want vacuum advance. This low voltage spark may not be enough to light the fuel mixture in the cylinder which will result in a misfire and loss of power. This was done in order to increase exhaust gas temperature due to "lighting the fire late" to improve the effectiveness of the "afterburning" of hydrocarbons by the air injected into the exhaust manifolds by the A.

There is a diaphragm inside the canister which is connected to a linkage connected to the pickup plate in the distributor. I have a with a d1sc spinning with smallest pulley and get over 12 lbs of boost. The trick is to know how much advance you have, and WHEN it comes in.

Technical - Ignition advance on E85 BMW - SpoolStreet

Nitrous and supercharged engines usually run less than that, unless you plan on blowing the heads off the engine or blowing holes through your pistons. I also have a MSD ignition which retards on boost. This is why some guys can tune an engine and make it run killer like we do , and other's just can't seem to get their car to get out of its own way. Nov 16, West Nyack, NY.